Olivier Theyskens Autumn-Winter 1998-99

In the late 1990s, 'disaster pictures' became a popular genre in fashion photography. These photos emphasised the fragility of the human body, the omnipresence of violence and the inevitability of death. Advertisements and photo shoots for fashion magazines depicted brutalised women's bodies amidst ruins, crashes and explosions. Distressed-looking models also appeared on the runway, for example in Alexander McQueen's early shows.

Over the last two decades, these references to decay, mortality and nostalgia have often been incorporated into the garments themselves. An example is this design for the 1998 Autumn-Winter collection by Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens. The dress features a large, heart-shaped appliqué in red lace over the right breast. Stylised veins and arteries run down the body and up the neck and décolleté. The design alludes to the concept of memento mori - 'remember that you will die': a common genre in the visual arts which reminds us of the transience of human life.