Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1990

The economy has always had an influence on the way people want to show their wealth, and how fashion designers respond to this. In times of crisis, consumers tend to opt less for flashy logos, rich fabrics and it-bags and more for an intimate, subtle experience of fashion. After the recession of the early nineties, minimalism became the most influential avant-garde style.

The value of a designer label and the name of the designer have a strong symbolic value. That idea is taken to the extreme in this iconic piece from Martin Margiela's 1990 spring-summer collection. The top is made from a recycled plastic shopping bag. The metal belt evokes the effect of a classic tapered waist. Belgian designer Martin Margiela became known for incorporating objets trouvés or found objects and recycled materials into his collections. He loved subtle wear and tear, and a delicate patina, and his creations were both artistically valuable and sustainable: these ideas have since become even more relevant in the world of fashion.