Théâtre de la Mode fashion dolls, Spring-Summer 1946

At the end of August 1944, Paris was liberated after four years of German occupation. The economy was in ruins, but signs of post-war life were slowly emerging. For example, La Chambre syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne, the professional association of the French fashion industry, took the initiative for the Théâtre de la Mode: an exhibition with 237 miniature dolls, dressed in day and evening wear by Parisian couture houses. It opened on 27 March 1945 at the Pavillon de Marsan in the heart of Paris and attracted nearly 100,000 visitors. The dolls, figurines standing at 70 cm, were designed by Eliane Bonadel: “We immediately thought these dolls should not be too solid as this would be reminiscent of a toy. I thought of something transparent… my point of departure was the table of measurements found in fashion magazines at the time.” This is apparent from the limbs, made from wire and reminiscent of schematic drawings of the (female) body.

The dolls were dressed in precious materials, designed with an incredible eye for detail - proof of the healthy competition between couturiers, according to interviews at that time. The hand-stitched buttonholes, meticulously finished linings, handbags and pockets that opened, miniature belts, jewellery, gloves, feathers and embroidery - all emphasised the craftsmanship of the artisans involved in French couture. As such, the exhibition became a showcase for the French fashion industry. The dolls were a way of showing that elegance and creativity had not been marred by the war. At the same time, they symbolised hope and renewal, and ignited a feeling of national pride.

After the war, the Théâtre de la Mode toured the world to promote Parisian fashion for the spring and summer of 1946 to international clients. First stop: New York. These three dolls, dressed by Worth, Ana de Pombo and Jeanne Lanvin, ended up in the collection of the Maryhill Museum of Art in Washington. Now they have crossed the ocean once again to be exhibited at MoMu.